|本期目录/Table of Contents|

[1]蔡欣,苏淼,赵丰,等.南京长干寺出土的平经暗花丝织物研究[J].丝绸,2012,49(08):000052-56.
 CAI Xin,SU Miao,ZHAO Feng,et al.A study on damasks excavated from Nanjing Changgan Temple relic[J].Journal of Silk,2012,49(08):000052-56.
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南京长干寺出土的平经暗花丝织物研究(PDF)
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《丝绸》[ISSN:1001-7003/CN:33-1122/TS]

卷:
49
期数:
2012年08期
页码:
000052-56
栏目:
历史与文化
出版日期:
2012-08-20

文章信息/Info

Title:
A study on damasks excavated from Nanjing Changgan Temple relic
文章编号:
1001-7003(2012)08-0052-05
作者:
蔡欣13苏淼1赵丰23白宁4
1.浙江理工大学 材料与纺织学院,杭州 310018;2.中国丝绸博物馆 纺织品文物保护国家文物局重点科研基地,杭州 310002;3.东华大学 服装学院,上海200051;4.南京市博物馆,南京 210004
Author(s):
CAI Xin 13 SU Miao 1 ZHAO Feng 23 BAI Ning 4
1.School of Materials and Textiles, Zhejiang Sci-Tech University, Hangzhou 310018, China; 2. Textile Relic Protection Key Scientific Research Base of State Administration of Cultural Heritage, China National Silk Museum, Hangzhou 310002, China; 3.Fashion Institute, Donghua University, Shanghai 200051, China; 4.Museum of Nanjing, Nanjing 210004, China
关键词:
平经暗花丝织物纹样风格织造工艺长干寺北宋
Keywords:
Damasks Style of patterns Weaving technology Changgan Temple Northern Song Dynasty
分类号:
K876.9
doi:
-
文献标志码:
B
摘要:
研究并分析了南京长干寺出土的平经类暗花丝织物实物,认为北宋时期,平纹地暗花织物的织造大多使用多综多蹑机,纹样简洁,花回小;斜纹地暗花织物的织造很可能使用束综提花机,以便生产出更大花回更多造型的组合纹样;中国古代传统的G-G显花技术仍被广泛采用,到辽宋以并丝织法织绫为最;织物艺术风格的淡然回归,织物织造技术的锐意进取当归功于北宋鼎盛繁荣之文化与空前发展之科技。最后推测性总结出北宋时期此类丝织品的纹样风格及决定其纹样风貌的织造工艺。
Abstract:
After studying and analyzing the damasks excavated from Nanjing Changgan Temple, this thesis deems that plain weave fabrics with incised flowers and simple patterns were mainly produced by multi-heddle & step hand looms and the twill fabrics with incised flowers were made by jacquard to produce fabrics with combined patterns, larger flowers and more styles in Northern Song Dynasty. The traditional G-G warp-floated technology of Ancient China is widely used. In Liao Dynasty and Song Dynasty, the silk weaving was the most popular. The regression of artistic style and the improvement of weaving skills for fabrics result from the prosperous culture and advanced technology in Northern Song Dynasty. Finally, it speculates and summarizes the styles of the pattern for this kind of silk fabrics and the weaving technology that decides its patterns.

参考文献/References:

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备注/Memo

备注/Memo:
收稿日期:2012-01-04;
修回日期:2012-06-11
基金项目:国家科技支撑计划课题(2009BAK53B07)
作者简介:蔡欣(1982- ),女,讲师,博士研究生,研究方向为中国染织服饰史论。
更新日期/Last Update: 2012-09-28