|本期目录/Table of Contents|

[1]陈敬玉,张萌萌.畲族彩带的要素特征及其在当代的嬗变[J].丝绸,2018,55(6):061302.[doi:10.3969/j.issn.1001-7003.2018.06.014]
 CHEN Jingyua,b ZHANG Mengmenga.Element characteristics of colored sash of She nationality and its transmutation in contemporary era[J].Journal of Silk,2018,55(6):061302.[doi:10.3969/j.issn.1001-7003.2018.06.014]
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畲族彩带的要素特征及其在当代的嬗变(PDF)
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《丝绸》[ISSN:1001-7003/CN:33-1122/TS]

卷:
55
期数:
2018年6期
页码:
061302
栏目:
历史与文化
出版日期:
2018-06-20

文章信息/Info

Title:
Element characteristics of colored sash of She nationality and its transmutation in contemporary era
文章编号:
1001-7003(2018)06-0083-08
作者:
陈敬玉张萌萌
浙江理工大学 a.服装学院;b.浙江省丝绸与时尚文化研究中心,杭州 310018
Author(s):
CHEN Jingyuab ZHANG Mengmenga
 a.Fashion College, Zhejiang Sci-Tech University; b.Silk and Fashion Culture Center of Zhejiang Province, Hangzhou 310018, China
关键词:
畲族彩带要素特征当代嬗变服饰
Keywords:
She nationality colored sash element characteristics contemporary era transmutation costume
分类号:
TS941.12;J523.5
doi:
10.3969/j.issn.1001-7003.2018.06.014
文献标志码:
B
摘要:
彩带编织工具简单灵活,织纹效果明显,是畲族特有的服饰手工艺制品。在非遗传承人访谈和现场观摩记录编织流程的基础上结合文献,将其工艺流程分为备纱、整经、提综、织纹、收口五个步骤,根据样品分析得出彩带为表里交换的双层提花组织。综合田野调查和文献分析的结果,总结彩带的要素特征主要有:经锦式的组织结构、表意的字符图案和丰富的民俗文化内涵,在此基础上对彩带图案进行整理和记录,按其寓意分为自然类、生活类和信仰祝愿类,并对其在当代社会的嬗变进行了分析,提出多方位协同保护的观点。
Abstract:
As a peculiar costume handicraft works of She nationality, colored sash has obvious weave grain and simple tools. On basis of interview with the intangible cultural heritage inheritor’s and the field observation of weave process records, the technological process was divided into five steps: yarn preparation, warping, shedding, weaving and binding off. According to the analysis of the sample, it is found that colored sash is the outside-inside switched double-deck figured texture weave. Element characteristics of the colored sash were summarized as follows by combining the results of field survey and literature analysis, tissue structure of brocade type, ideographic character pattern, and the rich folk culture connotation. On this basis, the patterns of the colored sash were sorted out and recorded, and they were divided into three categories according to implied meanings: nature, life and faith. Its transmutation in the contemporary society was also investigated. Finally, the view of of comprehensive coordination protection was proposed

参考文献/References:

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备注/Memo

备注/Memo:
基金项目:国家社科基金艺术学一般项目(16BG117)
收稿日期:2017-07-12
修回日期:2017-00-00
作者简介:陈敬玉(1979),女,副教授,主要从事民族服饰文化及服装设计理论研究
更新日期/Last Update: 2018-05-11