|本期目录/Table of Contents|

[1]王渊.《苏州织造局志》载清代补服信息考[J].丝绸,2018,55(5):051302.[doi:10.3969/j.issn.1001-7003.2018.05.015]
 WANG Yuan.Research on official robe of Qing dynasty on The Chorography of Suzhou Weaving Bureau[J].Journal of Silk,2018,55(5):051302.[doi:10.3969/j.issn.1001-7003.2018.05.015]
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《苏州织造局志》载清代补服信息考(PDF)
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《丝绸》[ISSN:1001-7003/CN:33-1122/TS]

卷:
55
期数:
2018年5期
页码:
051302
栏目:
历史与文化
出版日期:
2018-05-20

文章信息/Info

Title:
Research on official robe of Qing dynasty on The Chorography of Suzhou Weaving Bureau
文章编号:
1001-7003(2018)05-0091-05
作者:
王渊
上海视觉艺术学院 时尚设计学院,上海201100
Author(s):
WANG Yuan
 College of Fashion Design, Shanghai Institute of Visual Art, Shanghai 201100, China
关键词:
苏州织造局志清代补服尺寸裁剪
Keywords:
The Chorography of Suzhou Weaving Bureau Qing dynasty official robe size structure
分类号:
TS941.12;K875.9
doi:
10.3969/j.issn.1001-7003.2018.05.015
文献标志码:
B
摘要:
《苏州织造局志》是记载清代江南三织造之一的苏州织造局织造宫廷御用和官用各类纺织品事宜的重要文献,书中记载的沿革及史实至康熙二十五年止。文献中涉及清代补服的资料主要集中在“段匹”部分,此外还直接或是间接地提供了当时制作补服的工料、工时等相关信息。织造局所织造的补子尺寸以官制尺度量,与民间用尺有所差异;补服面料按照“身”为度按“匹”织造;无论是“上用”还是“官用”补服,织造时所耗费的工时、材料价格均不菲。织造局资料中有关清代补服纹样等级标识的尺寸、服装的裁剪结构、补服制作工时等信息的记载,对研究清代补服有着重要的意义。
Abstract:
“The Chorography of Suzhou Weaving Bureau” is an important literature which recorded weaving and fabricating Royal and official textile and costumes at Suzhou Weaving Bureau, one of 3 weaving bureaus at Jiangnan in Qing dynasty. The history and evolution until KangXi Emperor 25th years has been recorded. Data relevant with official robe in the literature can mostly be found in the part of “段匹”, and the materials and working hours to make official robe can also be found directly or indirectly. The geometric size of Buzi made at Weaving Bureau was measured in official units, so differences with civilian units could be found. The materials for official robe were measured for individual user’s size and weaved in unit of Pi. The official robe for emperor’s use and official use are both very time-costing and expensive in material and working. In the literatures of Weaving bureau, the information including the geometric sizes for the patterns of official robe for different official ranks in Qing dynasty and tailoring structures of dress and working time to make the official robe. All information are very meaningful for researching official robe at Qing dynasty

参考文献/References:

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备注/Memo

备注/Memo:
收稿日期:2017-07-23
修回日期:2018-00-00
作者简介:王渊(1975—),女,副教授,博士,主要从事中国服装史论研究
更新日期/Last Update: 2018-04-11