|本期目录/Table of Contents|

[1]周 方,卞向阳.罗袿徐转红袖扬——关于古代袿衣的几个问题[J].丝绸,2018,55(6):061304.
 ZHOU Fang,BIAN Xiangyang.LUO GUI XU ZHUAN HONG XIU YANG: - some questions about GUIYI[J].Journal of Silk,2018,55(6):061304.
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罗袿徐转红袖扬——关于古代袿衣的几个问题(PDF)
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《丝绸》[ISSN:1001-7003/CN:33-1122/TS]

卷:
55
期数:
2018年6期
页码:
061304
栏目:
历史与文化
出版日期:
2018-06-20

文章信息/Info

Title:
LUO GUI XU ZHUAN HONG XIU YANG: - some questions about GUIYI
文章编号:
1001-7003(2017)00-0000-00
作者:
周 方卞向阳
 东华大学 服装·艺术设计学院,上海 200051
Author(s):
ZHOU Fang BIAN Xiangyang
Fashion · Art Design Institute, Donghua University ,Shanghai 200051, China
关键词:
古代服装袿衣南北朝顾恺之
Keywords:
ancient times clothing GUIYI the Northern and Southern dynasties Gu Kaizhi
分类号:
TS941.12;J523.5
doi:
-
文献标志码:
B
摘要:
现有关于袿衣的研究多停留在对于袿衣上“纖”与“髾”的阐释中,缺乏对于袿衣起源、发展及形制演变的论述。文章通过对于文献的梳理,指出汉代袿衣源自周礼的“三翟”遗俗,并依据考古中的图像,将袿衣分为“袍制袿衣”和“襦裙制袿衣”两种。汉代流行的是“袍制袿衣”,魏晋南北朝流行的是“襦裙制袿衣”,袿衣形制的转变符合东汉晚期袍服式微,魏晋南北朝时期襦裙渐成主流的历史趋势。文章另外指出顾恺之笔下的袿衣女性影响了魏晋南北朝时期袿衣图像的表现,在南北朝晚期画师们的艺术加工下,袿衣逐渐进入了神仙造像系统。
Abstract:
The researches about GUIYI (a kind of female dress) mostly focus on the explanation of “XIAN” and “SHAO”, and lack discussions about GUIYI origin, development and form evolution. Based on literature review, this paper indicates that GUIYI in Han dynasty originated from Zhou’s " SANDI (The queen dresses In the Zhou dynasty) " custom. According to the images in Archaeology, GUIYI is divided into GUIPAO and RUQUN. GUIPAO was popular in Han dynasty, while RUQUN was popular in The Wei, Jin and Northern and Southern dynasties. The change of GUIYI style conforms to the historical trend that at the end of the Eastern Han dynasty, with the decline of GUIPAO, RUQUN system gradually became the mainstream. The article also points out that GUIYI women in Gu Kaizhi ’s painting influenced Guiyi images in Wei, JIN and Northern and Southern dynasties. Under the artistic transformation of the painters in the late Northern and Southern dynasties, GUIYI gradually entered the immortal statue system.

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备注/Memo

备注/Memo:
基金项目:上海市设计学Ⅳ类高峰学科资助项目(DD7002)
收稿日期:2017-09-11
修回日期:2018-00-00
作者简介:周方(1982—),女,博士研究生,研究方向为染织服饰史论
通信作者:卞向阳,教授,bianxiangyang@163.com
更新日期/Last Update: 2018-05-11