|本期目录/Table of Contents|

[1]牛 萌,卞向阳.明代晋冀水陆画中的服饰研究[J].丝绸,2018,55(7):071302.
 NIU Meng,BIAN Xiangyang.Research on clothing of the Ming dynasty in Water-and-Land paintings in Shanxi and Hebei[J].Journal of Silk,2018,55(7):071302.
点击复制

明代晋冀水陆画中的服饰研究(PDF)
分享到:

《丝绸》[ISSN:1001-7003/CN:33-1122/TS]

卷:
55
期数:
2018年7期
页码:
071302
栏目:
历史与文化
出版日期:
2018-07-20

文章信息/Info

Title:
Research on clothing of the Ming dynasty in Water-and-Land paintings in Shanxi and Hebei
文章编号:
1001-7003(2018)00-0000-00
作者:
牛 萌卞向阳
1.东华大学 服装与艺术设计学院,上海 200051;2.加州大学戴维斯分校 艺术学院,加州 戴维斯 95616
Author(s):
NIU Meng BIAN Xiangyang
1.Fashion and Design College, Donghua University, Shanghai 200051, China; 2.Department of Art and Art History, University of California, Davis CA 95616, USA
关键词:
晋冀水陆画明代服饰形制考证
Keywords:
Jin Ji province Water-and-Land painting Ming dynasty costume shape textual research
分类号:
TS941.12; K892.23
doi:
-
文献标志码:
B
摘要:
文章分析了晋冀水陆画中的人物服饰造型、宗教信息、社会风俗、文化环境等,结合其他图像的形象资料,论述了水陆画这一载体中明代服饰的表现形式,进而分析了其服饰的形态、帽冠、首饰、穿着效果和面料纹样及质感等方面。运用明朝冠服之制与图像中的服饰细节进行比对,展现了水陆画中明代服饰官服、民服及服饰搭配的特征。尤其是在世俗百家的水陆画中,明代服饰中仍然保留着前朝服饰的特征,体现了明代服饰文化的广收博纳。透过画面别具匠心的渲染,融汇三教要理,佛去封建迷信的尘埃,使其研究水陆画中明代服饰的意义更有深度和广度。
Abstract:
This paper analyzes character clothing modeling, information on religion, social customs, and culture, etc. in the water-and-land paintings of Shanxi and Hebei. In addition, this paper discusses the manifestation pattern of costume in Ming Dynasty from the carrier “water-and-land paintings” by combining other image data. Further, this paper analyzes many aspects like the forms, cap crown, jewelry, wearing effect, fabric patterns and texture. By comparing crown suit system in Ming Dynasty with details of costume in Water-and-Land paintings, this paper shows the features of official and civilian costume in Ming Dynasty and costume matching in the Water-and-Land paintings. Especially in the secular Water and Land paintings, the costume in Ming Dynasty still retains the characteristics of the former costume, and costume culture reflects the generous acceptance in Ming Dynasty. The pictures show a particular skillful combination of three religions, wipe off the feudalistic superstition, and make the research on costume of the Ming Dynasty in Water-and-Land paintings more profound and extensive

参考文献/References:

[1]黄河. 元明清水陆画浅说[J]. 佛教文化, 2006(2): 107.
HUANG He. Water and land paintings of Yuan Ming Qing [J]. Buddhist Culture, 2006(2): 107.
[2]戴晓云. 北水陆法会图考-以北方地区明清“水陆画”为中心 [D]. 北京: 中央美术学院, 2007: 139.
DAI Xiaoyun. Paintings of the Liberation Rite of Water and Land [D]. Beijing: China Central Academy of Fine Arts, 2007: 139.
[3]杨冰华. 中国佛教水陆画研究的回顾与展望[J]. 中国佛学, 2014(7): 269.
YANG Binghua. Review and prospects on water and land paintings of Chinese buddhist [J]. The Chinese Buddhist Studies, 2014(7): 269.
[4]苏金成. 水陆画图像研究[D]. 南京: 东南大学, 2009: 103.
SU Jincheng. Research of Water and Land Painting Images [D]. Nanjing: Southeast University, 2009: 103.
[5]沈从文. 中国古代服饰研究[M]. 北京: 商务印书馆, 2011: 2, 640.
SHEN Congwen. Research on Ancient Chinese Clothing History [M]. Beijing: The Commercial Press, 2011: 2, 640.
[6]包铭新. 敦煌壁画和雕塑用于中国古代丝绸研究的可行性和方法论[J]. 敦煌研究, 2004(1): 51.
BAO Mingxin. The feasibility and methodology in the research of the ancient silk in China via the Dunhuang murals and sculpture [J]. Dunhuang Research, 2004(1): 51.
[7]《北京文物鉴赏》编委会. 明清水陆画[M]. 北京: 北京美术摄影出版社, 2005: 32, 51, 36.
Editorial Committee of Beijing Cultural Relics Appreciation. Water and Land Paintings in Ming and Qing Dynasty [M].
Beijing: Beijing Art Photography Press, 2005: 32, 51, 36.
[8]华梅. 中国历代《舆服志》研究[M]. 北京: 商务印书馆, 2015: 38.
HUA Mei. Research on Yu Fu Zhi in Ancient China [M]. Beijing: The Commercial Press, 2015: 38.
[9]张廷玉. 明史[M]. 北京: 中华书局, 1974: 1634-1635.
ZHANG Tingyu. History of Ming [M]. Beijing: Zhonghua Press, 1974: 1634-1635.
[10]黄强. 中国服饰画史[M]. 天津: 百花文艺出版社, 2007: 70.
HUANG Qiang. The History of Chinese Clothing Painting [M]. Tianjin: Bai Hua Wen Yi Press, 2007: 70.
[11]王素芳, 石永士. 毗卢寺壁画世界[M]. 石家庄: 河北教育出版社, 2002: 194.
WANG Sufang, SHI Yongshi. Mural Paintings of Pilu Temple [M]. Shijiazhuang: Hebei Education Press, 2002: 194.
[12]金维诺. 中国美术全集·绘画编·寺观壁画[M]. 广州: 广东教育出版社, 2011: 1.
JIN Weinuo. Chinese Art · Painting·Mural Paintings of Temple [M]. Guangzhou: Guangdong Education Press, 2011: 1.
[13]山西省博物馆. 宝宁寺明代水陆画[M]. 北京: 文物出版社, 1988: 71.

备注/Memo

备注/Memo:
基金项目:上海市设计学IV类高峰学科资助项目(DD17002)
收稿日期:2017-10-19
修回日期:2018-00-00
作者简介:牛萌(1988—),女,博士研究生,研究方向为服装染织史论、时尚产业与时尚文化
通信作者:卞向阳,教授,bianxiangyang@163.com
更新日期/Last Update: 2018-06-01