|本期目录/Table of Contents|

[1]张译文,贺 阳.贵州花溪苗族女上衣中十字刺绣纹样探析[J].丝绸,2018,55(8):081202.
 ZHANG Yiwena,HE Yangb.Analysis on the modeling and technology of cross embroidery pattern in the women’s upper outer garment of Miao nationality in Huaxi, Guizhou Province[J].Journal of Silk,2018,55(8):081202.
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《丝绸》[ISSN:1001-7003/CN:33-1122/TS]

卷:
55
期数:
2018年8期
页码:
081202
栏目:
设计与产品
出版日期:
2018-08-20

文章信息/Info

Title:
Analysis on the modeling and technology of cross embroidery pattern in the women’s upper outer garment of Miao nationality in Huaxi, Guizhou Province
文章编号:
1001-7003(2018)00-0000-00
作者:
张译文贺 阳
北京服装学院 a. 服装艺术与工程学院;b.民族服饰博物馆,北京100029
Author(s):
ZHANG Yiwena HE Yangb
a.College of Fashion Art and Engineering; b.Beijing Institute of Clothing National Costume Museum, Beijing Institute of Fashion Technology, Beijing 100029, China
关键词:
苗族服饰十字纹装饰风格针法刺绣步骤
Keywords:
Miao costumes cross pattern decorative style stitching technique embroidery steps
分类号:
TS941.11; J523.6
doi:
-
文献标志码:
B
摘要:
贵州省贵阳市花溪区的苗族妇女以其精湛的刺绣工艺和装饰方法,将十字纹样的造型发挥到了极致。文章以北京服装学院民族服饰博物馆馆藏的花溪苗族服饰为研究依据,结合实地考察,对花溪十字纹绣品总结归纳,从针法工艺、刺绣步骤、色彩构成及应用特点四个方面进行分析,总结出了四大类别七种针法和以“十”字形为基础的制作步骤。其丰富的刺绣针法是中华文化的瑰宝,具有传承的价值,程序化的制图步骤及巧妙的构图方式是中国古代劳动人民智慧的结晶,对现代设计具有启发作用。
Abstract:
In Huaxi District, Guiyang City, Guizhou Province, the modeling of cross pattern has been developed extremely by Miao women with their superb embroidery techniques and decorative methods. Based on Huaxi Miao costumes collected in the National Costume Museum of Beijing Institute of Fashion Technology, the author summarized cross pattern embroidery combined with field study, and conducted analysis from four aspects including the stitching techniques, embroidery steps, color composition and application features. M eanwhile, the author summarized four categories , seven techniques and the steps center ed around the cross pattern. The various embroideries with the value of heritage are treasures of Chinese culture. The programmed drawing steps and ingenious method of composition are the wisdom of Chinese ancient workers. This paper has inspirations for modern design.

参考文献/References:

[1]韩佳格. 论贵州“花溪式”苗族服饰特征[J]. 贵州大学学报(艺术版), 2015,29(4): 117.
HAN Jiage. On the features of Miao costumes with “Hua-xi-shi” style in Guizhou province[J]. Journal of Guizhou University (Art Edition), 2015 ,29(4): 117.
[2]翁长庆.谈谈苗族刺绣[J].丝绸,2004(6):47.
WEN Changqing.Talk about Miao embroidery[J].Silk Monthly,2004(6):47
[3] 贡布里希.《秩序感-装饰艺术的心理学研究》[M].广西:广西美术出版社,2015
E.H.Gombrich. The Sense of order: A study in the psychology of decorative art[M].Guangxi:Guangxi Fine Arts Publishing House,2015
[4]裴学度, 包应釗. 贵阳花溪苗族挑花[J]. 装饰, 1959(6): 23.
PEI Xuedu, BAO Yingzhao. The embroidery of Miao minority in Huaxi Guizhou Province [J]. ZHUANGSHI,1959(6): 23.
[5]吴仕忠. 中国苗族服饰图志[M]. 贵阳: 贵州人民出版社, 2000: 452.

备注/Memo

备注/Memo:
基金项目:北京市教育委员会科技计划一般项目(YTG02170206/023);北京市科学技术委员会“设计之都”建设领域重大项目(ZXKY03160404)
收稿日期:2017-10-24
修回日期:2018-00-00
基金项目:北京市教育委员会科技计划一般项目(YTG02170206/023);北京市科学技术委员会“设计之都”建设领域重大项目(ZXKY03160404)
作者简介:张译文(1990—),女,硕士研究生,研究方向为民族服饰。通信作者:贺阳,教授,1916867097@qq.com
更新日期/Last Update: 2018-06-27