|本期目录/Table of Contents|

[1]郑宇婷,刘瑞璞.“杭州织造”乾隆八旗棉甲的规制与成造[J].丝绸,2018,55(10):101301.[doi:10.3969/j.issn.1001-7003.2018.10.012]
 ZHENG Yuting,LIU Ruipu.The regulation and formation for the Eight Banners padded armors made by Hangzhou Official Silk Factory during Qianlong period[J].Journal of Silk,2018,55(10):101301.[doi:10.3969/j.issn.1001-7003.2018.10.012]
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《丝绸》[ISSN:1001-7003/CN:33-1122/TS]

卷:
55
期数:
2018年10期
页码:
101301
栏目:
历史与文化
出版日期:
2018-10-20

文章信息/Info

Title:
The regulation and formation for the Eight Banners padded armors made by Hangzhou Official Silk Factory during Qianlong period
文章编号:
1001-7003(2018)10-0073-05
作者:
郑宇婷刘瑞璞
北京服装学院 服装艺术与工程学院,北京 100029
Author(s):
ZHENG Yuting LIU Ruipu
 School of Clothing Art and Engineering, Beijing Institute of Fashion Technology, Beijing 100029, China
关键词:
棉甲规制与成造杭州织造乾隆盛世清承汉制
Keywords:
padded armor regulation and formation Hangzhou Official Silk Factory Qianlong flourishing period military uniform in Qing dynasty inherit s from Ming dynasty
分类号:
TS941.742.49
doi:
10.3969/j.issn.1001-7003.2018.10.012
文献标志码:
B
摘要:
八旗棉甲为清代戎服的一个重要分支,文献对其规制有所记述,但有史无据,缺少对标本和文献相互印证的依据。文章通过对乾隆八旗棉甲标本进行系统信息采集,发现其全部为“杭州织造”所制,故以此为线索结合文献研究等手段,从其规制、成造历史与成造材质等方面完整还原八旗棉甲的真实面貌。它的繁荣是中国古代军戎服饰与丝绸文化的完美结合,标志着乾隆盛世生产力水平的高峰和阅甲清承汉制的集大成,但同时其繁冗浮夸也见证了大清王朝由盛转衰的历史命运。
Abstract:
The “Eight Banners” padded armor is an important branch of military uniform in the Qing dynasty. The literature has descriptions of its regulation and formation, but there is lack of evidence on mutual corroboration between specimens and literature. In this paper, through collecting information on the specimen, it was found that they were all made by “Hangzhou Official Silk Factory”. According to this clue, literature research was combined to restore the real look of the “Eight Banners” padded armor by its making history, regulation, material and so on. Its prosperity is a perfect combination of military costume and silk culture in ancient China. It symbols the peak of productivity level during Qianlong flourishing period and it epitomizes that military uniform in the Qing dynasty inherited from Ming dynasty. But at the same time the exaggerated padded armor also witnesse d the historical fate of prosperity and decline of the Qing dynasty.

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备注/Memo

备注/Memo:
基金项目:北京服装学院博士项目(NHFZ20170079)
收稿日期:2018-02-03
修回日期:2018-00-00
作者简介:郑宇婷(1994—),女,硕士研究生,研究方向为清代戎服结构与文化内涵
通信作者:刘瑞璞,教授,zyuting572@qq.com
更新日期/Last Update: 2018-09-13