|本期目录/Table of Contents|

[1]高 敏,张一帆,任小艳,等.豫皖交界地区传统绣花鞋制作工艺研究[J].丝绸,2018,55(11):111203.[doi:10.3969/j.issn.1001-7003.2018.11.012]
 GAO in,ZHANG Yifan,REN Xiaoyan,et al.Research on the production process of traditional folk embroidered shoes at the boundary between Henan and Anhui[J].Journal of Silk,2018,55(11):111203.[doi:10.3969/j.issn.1001-7003.2018.11.012]
点击复制

豫皖交界地区传统绣花鞋制作工艺研究(PDF)
分享到:

《丝绸》[ISSN:1001-7003/CN:33-1122/TS]

卷:
55
期数:
2018年11期
页码:
111203
栏目:
设计与产品
出版日期:
2018-11-20

文章信息/Info

Title:
Research on the production process of traditional folk embroidered shoes at the boundary between Henan and Anhui
文章编号:
1001-7003(2018)11-0073-06
作者:
高 敏张一帆任小艳王妮
1.东华大学 纺织学院, 上海 201620;2.杭州二中白马湖学校,杭州 31005
Author(s):
GAO in ZHANG Yifan REN Xiaoyan LI Yuling GAO Weidong WANG Ni
 1.College of textiles, Donghua University, Shanghai 201620, China; 2.Hangzhou Second Middle School in Baima Lake, Hangzhou 310053, China; 3. Textile and Apparel College, Jiangnan University, Wuxi 214122, China.
关键词:
千层鞋底纳鞋底针法鞋帮工艺绣花工艺绱鞋方式
Keywords:
Thousand-layer soles the needle method of sole making upper process embroidery process shoe sewing way
分类号:
TS943.76
doi:
10.3969/j.issn.1001-7003.2018.11.012
文献标志码:
-
摘要:
针对豫皖交界地区的绣花鞋进行实地考察,对豫皖地区的绣花鞋形成工艺进行总结。主要包括民间传统绣花鞋的“千层鞋底”制作工艺过程、纳鞋底针法及鞋帮制作工艺研究。通过调研发现该地区的纳鞋针法主要有枣花菱形和单针菱形两种形式、保留的绱鞋方式主要有明绱、暗绱和翻绱三种形式,使用最多的是明绱;刺绣方式主要包括剪纸贴花绣法和平针绣法两种形式;绣花鞋图案来源主要根据民间风俗和对自然界景物的抽象化演变而来。这为中原地区的绣花鞋成型工艺提供完整的理论依据,帮助中国传统手工业发展与文化传承,侧面反映了豫皖地区的民俗风情与文化交流。
Abstract:
A field survey of embroidered shoes in the border area of Henan and Anhui was carried out, and the formation process of embroidered shoes in Henan and Anhui areas was summarized, mainly including the production process of the “thousand-layer soles” of traditional folk embroidery shoes, the needling method of sole making method and the production process of the upper. Through investigations, it was found that the needling methods of sole making in the region mainly include jujube rhombus and single-needle rhombus. The stitching methods of the upper and the sole mainly include open stitching, concealed stitching and overturned stitching. The most used one is open stitching. The embroidery modes mainly include paper-cut applique embroidery and flat needle embroidery. The source of embroidered shoe patterns is mainly from folk customs and the abstraction of natural scenery. This provides a complete theoretical basis for the embroidery shoe forming process in the Central Plains, helps the development of traditional Chinese handicraft industry and cultural heritage and reflects the folk customs and cultural exchanges in the Henan and Anhui regions

参考文献/References:

[1]张竞琼, 李洵. 吴东水乡地区绣花鞋的工艺研究[J]. 纺织学报, 2011, 32(11): 113-118.
ZHANG Jingqiong, LI Xun. Study on workmanship of embroidered shoes in the south area of the Yangtze River [J].Journal of Textile Research 2011, 32 (11): 113-118.
[2]崔荣荣, 张竞琼. 江南水乡民间女服色彩解析[J]. 东华大学学报(社会科学), 2005, 5(1): 63-65.
CUI Rongrong, ZHANG Jingqiong. Color analysis of folk women’s wear in Jiangnan Water Town [J]. Journal of Donghua University (Social Science), 2005, 5(1): 63-65.
[3]周汛. 中国衣冠服饰大辞典[M]. 上海:上海辞书出版社, 1996.
ZHOU Xun. Chinese lothing Apparel Dictionary [M]. Shanghai: Shanghai Dictionary Press, 1996.
[4]任稳稳, 谷莉. 邳州绣花鞋的艺术特色[J]. 大众文艺, 2013(22): 127-128.
REN Wenwen, GU Li. Art of Pizhou embroidery shoes [J]. Popular Arts, 2013(22): 127-128.
[5]余淼. 中国古代鞋履趣谈之绣花鞋: 古代少女思春的出口[J]. 西部皮革, 2016, 38(11): 75-76.
YU Miao. Ancient Chinese footwear fun talk embroidered shoes: the export of ancient maid Sichun [J]. West Leather, 2016, 38(11): 75-76.
[6]陈娟, 郝云华. 云南彝族绣花鞋初探[J]. 德宏师范高等专科学校学报, 2010(4): 23-26.
CHEN Juan, HAO Yunhua. A preliminary probe into the Dais’ embroidery shoes in Yunnan [J]. Journal of Dehong Teachers College, 2010,19(4): 23-26.
[7]徐玉芳. 浅谈侗族与客家的绣花鞋变化比较[J].艺术品鉴, 2016(10): 1-3.
XU Yufang. A comparative study on the changes of embroidered shoes between Dongs and Hakka [J]. Art Review, 201610):1-3.
[8]邓惠文. 从江侗族婚嫁绣花鞋的工艺技法及艺术特征[J]. 包装学报, 2012(2): 67-71.
DENG Huiwen. Craft echniques and artistic characteristics of Dong people embroidery wedding shoes [J].Packaging Journal, 2012(2): 67-71.
[9]李洵, 张竞琼. 民间绣花鞋鞋底制作工艺研究[J]. 东华大学学报(社会科学), 2011, 11(3): 180-184.
LI Xun, ZHANG Jingqiong. Research on fabrication techniques of folk embroidered shoes [J]. Journal of Donghua University (Social Science), 2011, 11(3): 180-184.
[10]徐亚平, 崔荣荣. 民国时期江南水乡民间绣花鞋研究[J].丝绸, 2005(9): 46-47.
XU Yaping, CUI Rongrong. Research on folk embroidered shoe in jiangnan water village in Republic of China [J].Journal of Silk, 2005(9): 46-47.
[11]杨凤英. 云南少数民族传统绣花鞋的种类及其文化内涵[J].学术探索, 2004(1): 90-92.
YANG Fengying. The arieties of traditional embroidered shoes of ethnic minorities in Yunnan and its cultural intention [J]. Academic Exploration, 2004(1): 90-92.
[12]吴改红, 刘淑强. 民间传统手工千层底布鞋制作工艺[J].轻纺工业与技术, 2016(4): 42-45.
WU Gaihong, LIU Shuqiang. Production of folk traditional handmade melaleuca fabric shoes [J]. Light and Textile Industry and Technology2016(4): 42-45.
[13]骆崇骐. 中国鞋文化史[M]. 上海:上海科学技术出版社, 1990.
LUO Chongqi. Chinese hoe Culture History [M]. Shanghai: Shanghai Science and Technology Press, 1990.
[14]陈慧娟, 郑新涛. 贵州西江苗绣中蝴蝶纹样的特征分析[J]. 商业文化, 2009(5): 126.
CHEN Huijuan, ZHENG Xintao.Characteristics of butterfly patterns in Miao embroidery in Xijiang, Guizhou province [J]. Business Culture, 2009(5): 126.
[15]许国祥. 浅析运用展平图及外底样水平投影设计围盖式明绱布鞋帮样[J].中外鞋业, 1993(3): 23-25.

备注/Memo

备注/Memo:
基金项目:中央高校基本科研业务费专项资金资助(17D110116);国家重点研发计划(2017YFB0309200)
收稿日期:2018-03-05
修回日期:2018-00-00
作者简介:高敏(1992),女,硕士,研究方向为纺织工程
通信作者:张一帆,讲师,zhangyifan@dhu.edu.cn
更新日期/Last Update: 2018-10-15