|本期目录/Table of Contents|

[1]杨佩,金子敏,吴建华.自黏性宋锦箱包织物的纹织工艺研究[J].丝绸,2018,55(9):000081-85.
 YANG Pei,JIN Zimin,WU Jianhua.The research on jacquard weaving technology of selfadhesive Song brocade bag fabric[J].Journal of Silk,2018,55(9):000081-85.
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自黏性宋锦箱包织物的纹织工艺研究(PDF)
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《丝绸》[ISSN:1001-7003/CN:33-1122/TS]

卷:
55
期数:
2018年9期
页码:
000081-85
栏目:
设计与产品
出版日期:
2018-09-20

文章信息/Info

Title:
The research on jacquard weaving technology of selfadhesive Song brocade bag fabric
文章编号:
1001-7003(2018)09-0081-05
作者:
杨佩 金子敏 吴建华
1.浙江理工大学 材料与纺织学院、丝绸学院,杭州 310018;2.苏州上久楷丝绸科技文化有限公司,江苏 苏州 215002
Author(s):
YANG Pei JIN Zimin WU Jianhua
1.Silk Tnstitute, College of Materials and Textiles, Zhejiang Sci-Tech University, Hangzhou 310018, China;2.Suzhou Shangjiukai Silk Technology & Culture Co., Ltd., Suzhou 215002, China
关键词:
宋锦箱包织物自黏性织物组织纹织工艺
Keywords:
Song brocade bag fabric selfadhesive weave Jacquard weaving technology
分类号:
TS145.1
doi:
-
文献标志码:
A
摘要:
为使丝绸提花宋锦箱包织物具有自身黏合功能,采用低熔点聚酯纤维和桑蚕丝进行交织。自黏功能宋锦织物采用两组经线与四组纬线交织而成。经线分为地经和面经,比例为3︰1,纬纱排列比为甲纬︰乙纬︰丙纬︰丁纬=1︰1︰1,其中丁纬线为低熔点聚酯纤维。地组织表层为地经3枚经斜纹,显地经色;3个花部组织的表层分别为甲纬、乙纬、丙纬与面经的3枚纬斜纹,分别显示甲纬、乙纬、丙纬的颜色;丁纬均背衬在织物反面,为长浮线,从而使低熔点聚酯纤维背衬于织物反面,将此宋锦织物与另一层用于保持箱包一定形态的里衬基布面料叠在一起,用高温加热,两层面料便黏合在一起。此加工过程与普通箱包过胶黏合工序相比,既提高生产效率,又环保安全。
Abstract:
In order to make the Song brocade bag fabric have selfadhesive function, lowmelting polyester fiber and silk were interwoven as raw materials. The Song brocade fabric with selfadhesive function was made through interweaving two groups of warp and four groups of weft. The wraps are divided into the ground warp and surface warp with a ratio of 3︰1. The weft arrangement ratio is A︰B︰C︰D=1︰1︰1︰1, of which D weft is a lowmelting polyester fiber. The surface layer of ground wrap is warp twill (R=3), and the surface ground weave displays the color of ground warp. Three surface pattern weaves are weft twill (R=3) with the surface warp and A, B, C wefts woven, and they display the color of A, B, C weft respectively. D weft is backed on the reverse side of fabric, and it is the long floating line so that lowmelting polyester fiber is backed on the reverse side of fabric. The Song brocade fabric was overlaid with the layer of lining fabric used to make bags keep certain shape. Meanwhile, they were heated by high temperature to make the two layers of fabrics bonded together. This process is not only more efficient in production, but also more environmentally friendly and safer, compared with the bonding process of common bags.

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备注/Memo

备注/Memo:
收稿日期: 2017-03-23
修回日期: 2018-06-21
基金项目: 纺织科学与工程重中之重项目(2015KF24)
作者简介: 杨佩(1991),女,硕士研究生,研究方向为纺织材料与纺织品设计
通信作者:金子敏,教授,kivenjin@163.com
更新日期/Last Update: 2018-10-08